The New Zealand Site
Mt Taranaki
Alistair Ross
Mt Taranaki is a volcanic cone of such snow-capped, near-perfect symmetry that it is often compared to Mt Fujiyama in Japan. Its summit is the centre of Egmont National Park, which offers unforgettable tramping, climbing and skiing experiences.
Taranaki Map Mt Taranaki stands about 25 kilometres from the sea on the west coast of the North Island, roughly half-way between Auckland and Wellington. It is alone apart from the eroded remnants of the more ancient Kaitake and Pouakai volcanoes. They date from 500,000 and 250,000 years ago respectively, while Taranaki is assumed to have begun building up 70,000 years ago. It has had long periods of dormancy followed by violent eruptions. It last erupted in 1755 and there is some debate as to whether it is now extinct or merely dormant.

Maori tradition holds that Taranaki once stood alongside Mt Ruapehu and Mt Tongariro in the central volcanic plateau, but a dispute over the affections of the beautiful Mt Pihanga caused Tongariro to blow his top and drove Taranaki to flee to the coast. He carved the channel of the Whanganui River as he went and as he slept by the coast, heartbroken, he was trapped by the Pouakai Range. Misty, rainy weather on the mountain is said to be a sign of his loneliness and grief for his lost love.

Waterfall on the track, June 2002
It certainly rains a great deal on Taranaki. The prevailing west to south-west winds bring fronts that slam against the mountain, delivering 6,500 to 8,000 mm of rain a year. Consequently the slopes are riven by steep-sided valleys and numerous slips and streams. After rain, streams swell from step-across trickles to thigh-deep raging torrents, and waterfalls (on Holly Hut track, pictured) suddenly pour down. Being an alpine area so close to the sea, the weather is even more extremely changeable than much of the rest of the North Island. Sixty-two people have so far been recorded as having died on the mountain, most of them climbers.

Mt Taranaki It was made a reserve in 1875 and became Egmont National Park in 1900. The park extends out to a radius of 9-1/2 kilometres (6 miles) from the summit and at the boundary there is an abrupt transition from tall, ancient rainforest to fertile pastures and farms. Due to its isolation from other alpine areas, the vegetation has evolved many locally distinctive variations and there is a complete absence of beech trees. The lower slopes are clothed in a luxurious forest of rimu, matai, miro and rata, while a mossy 'goblin forest' of kamahi and kaikawaka (mountain cedar) covers the higher slopes. Above the treeline a dense low scrub with tree daisies, mountain five finger and needle-leaf grass trees clings to the edges of alpine ridges clad in golden, waving tussock grass. There are over 300 kilometres of tracks ringing the mountain, ranging from daywalks to summit climbs or the 4-5 day Round the Mountain track.

Mt Taranaki, or, Mt Egmont
A while ago the New Zealand government pondered the serious issue of whether the mountain should retain the name of Mt Egmont (given to it in 1770 by Captain Cook in honour of the then First Lord of the Admiralty, Earl Egmont) or revert to the original Maori name of Taranaki (meaning 'bare peak'), which is also used for the whole region. After spending much time and probably an inordinate amount of money considering the problem, the government decreed that the mountain could be called either Mt Egmont or Mt Taranaki.

Historically, the Taranaki region has been the site of much bloodshed and warfare, firstly between the local Ati Awa tribe and northern tribes armed with European muskets, and then between European colonists (who had bought land from these temporary northern invaders) and the returning Ati Awa tribe. In the 1870s local Maori developed the peaceful agricultural commune of Parihaka under the leadership of the prophet Te Whiti O Rongomai, who preached non-violent civil disobedience. It was a peaceful attempt to retain some of their land and their culture. However, in 1881 it was razed to the ground by colonial militia and Te Whiti was imprisoned. The government knew that they would have trouble convicting him of any crime, so they introduced a special law to keep him detained in prison without trial indefinitely. Some degree of redress is now available to Maori through the Treaty of Waitangi Commission.

Camphouse, North Egmont We left Auckland at 5:00 am and drove to Taranaki (about 5-1/2 hours' drive), had a delicious lunch and latte in the cafe at the North Egmont Visitors' Centre, left the car in the carpark and headed up the Razorback track to the Round the Mountain track (RTM) and on to the Holly Hut. The Razorback track starts beside the Camphouse. It's a historic DOC bunkhouse that served as barracks for militia in New Plymouth during the Land Wars of the 1860s and was moved to North Egmont in 1891.

The Razorback track climbs from 952 metres at North Egmont to about 1,300 metres, where it joins the RTM, which gives spectacular views to Mt Ruapehu and Mt Tongariro to the east and coastline to the north. Luckily, while Northland and Auckland were being battered by a storm from the north-east, Taranaki was crystal clear and bone dry. Every drop of water had frozen out of the air, all the mud was rock-hard and most of the streams were empty except for pools of ice. We couldn't help but spend hours admiring the view and reached the Holly Hut in time to appreciate the solar-powered lighting system. We had the hut to ourselves.

Sunrise from Pouakai Hut The next equally stunning day we tramped across Ahukawakawa Swamp, which is boardwalked, crossed the river (slightly over ankle-deep but very, very cold) and up the Pouakai Range to Poukai Hut. That night the condensation froze on the inside of the hut windows, but the dawn (pictured) was worth every frozen second. From Pouakai Hut you can see the town of New Plymouth, out to sea and up the coastline for a very long way. Leaving Pouakai Hut we tramped along the ridgeline past frozen tarns and on to Maude and Henry Peaks and the Kaiaui Track.

Mt Taranaki There were stunning views of Taranaki in the morning light (pictured) from the ridgeline, but soon after Maude Peak the track deteriorated into a severely eroded narrow v-shaped cut that was chest-deep in most places and barely wide enough for a boot to fit in at the bottom. It was tough going and slow. Below the treeline the track improved somewhat and after Kaiaui Hut (small and dark) it was quite good, but we had been going for several hours by then. When daywalkers offered us a lift back up the final 2 kilometre stretch of road to the North Egmont carpark we were overjoyed. Great views, but an overly gruelling day on an awful track. Overall though, the perfect weather and truly awesome scenery outweighed the last diabolical day.

This time we stayed in the Camphouse overnight (excellent - hot showers!), tramped round to the Holly Hut, had a rest day there, and then over to Pouakai Hut and finally out to the Mangorei Rd end, where we got shuttled back to North Egmont.

Ahukawakawa Swamp and Holly Hut We were a party of six, including my twelve year old son, and we didn't want to do anything too gruelling, so the option of walking out to the Mangorei Rd end was great. The weather, however, went from low cloud at first to torrential rain, sunny patches and then finally snowing on our last day. The tracks had fearsomely strong streams to cross and were either underwater or ankle-deep mudpools (or both). The river in Ahukawakawa Swamp (at bottom of picture looking back towards the Holly Hut) was waist-deep, strong and numbingly cold. We crossed ok, but if it had been any deeper, we wouldn't have been able to.

Snow on the trail It was wild and exhilarating. The dusting of snow on the ridge made for magical scenery and the clouds parted for one sunny afternoon, just where we could look back at the mountain and off out to sea. There was even a rainbow on the mountain and the Pouakai Hut was bathed in warm, golden light. We'd had the Holly Hut pretty much to ourselves for two days and we had the Pouakai Hut to ourselves too. Evidently the weather had put people off.



Snowfalling at Pouakai Hut The hut trembled from wind gusts during the night and we awoke to fresh snow outside and sleet covering the windows. We didn't want to leave because it was so wild and beautiful, but we had a shuttle organised to pick us up and deliver us back to our cars at North Egmont (about 45 minutes' drive). It was a wonderful trip - challenging, exhilarating and utterly wild.