
Mt Taranaki
Alistair Ross
Mt Taranaki is a volcanic cone of such snow-capped, near-perfect symmetry
that it is often compared to Mt Fujiyama in Japan. Its summit is the centre
of Egmont National Park, which offers unforgettable tramping, climbing and
skiing experiences.

Mt Taranaki stands about 25 kilometres from the sea on the west coast
of the North Island, roughly half-way between Auckland and Wellington.
It is alone apart from the eroded remnants of the more ancient Kaitake
and Pouakai volcanoes. They date from 500,000 and 250,000 years ago
respectively, while Taranaki is assumed to have begun building up 70,000
years ago. It has had long periods of dormancy followed by violent
eruptions. It last erupted in 1755 and there is some debate as to
whether it is now extinct or merely dormant.
Maori tradition holds that Taranaki once stood alongside Mt Ruapehu
and Mt Tongariro in the central volcanic plateau, but a dispute over
the affections of the beautiful Mt Pihanga caused Tongariro to blow
his top and drove Taranaki to flee to the coast. He carved the channel
of the Whanganui River as he went and as he slept by the coast, heartbroken,
he was trapped by the Pouakai Range. Misty, rainy weather on the mountain
is said to be a sign of his loneliness and grief for his lost love.
It certainly rains a great deal on Taranaki. The prevailing west to
south-west winds bring fronts that slam against the mountain, delivering
6,500 to 8,000 mm of rain a year. Consequently the slopes are riven by
steep-sided valleys and numerous slips and streams. After rain, streams
swell from step-across trickles to thigh-deep raging torrents, and waterfalls
(on Holly Hut track, pictured) suddenly pour down. Being an alpine area so
close to the sea, the weather is even more extremely changeable than much
of the rest of the North Island. Sixty-two people have so far been recorded
as having died on the mountain, most of them climbers.

It was made a reserve in 1875 and became Egmont National Park in 1900.
The park extends out to a radius of 9-1/2 kilometres (6 miles) from the
summit and at the boundary there is an abrupt transition from tall, ancient
rainforest to fertile pastures and farms. Due to its isolation from other
alpine areas, the vegetation has evolved many locally distinctive variations
and there is a complete absence of beech trees. The lower slopes are clothed
in a luxurious forest of rimu, matai, miro and rata, while a mossy 'goblin
forest' of kamahi and kaikawaka (mountain cedar) covers the higher slopes.
Above the treeline a dense low scrub with tree daisies, mountain five finger
and needle-leaf grass trees clings to the edges of alpine ridges clad in
golden, waving tussock grass. There are over 300 kilometres of tracks ringing
the mountain, ranging from daywalks to summit climbs or the 4-5 day Round
the Mountain track.
A while ago the New Zealand government pondered the serious issue of whether
the mountain should retain the name of Mt Egmont (given to it in 1770 by
Captain Cook in honour of the then First Lord of the Admiralty, Earl Egmont)
or revert to the original Maori name of Taranaki (meaning 'bare peak'),
which is also used for the whole region. After spending much time and probably
an inordinate amount of money considering the problem, the government decreed
that the mountain could be called either Mt Egmont or Mt Taranaki.
Historically, the Taranaki region has been the site of much bloodshed and
warfare, firstly between the local Ati Awa tribe and northern tribes armed
with European muskets, and then between European colonists (who had bought
land from these temporary northern invaders) and the returning Ati Awa tribe.
In the 1870s local Maori developed the peaceful agricultural commune of
Parihaka under the leadership of the prophet Te Whiti O Rongomai, who
preached non-violent civil disobedience. It was a peaceful attempt to
retain some of their land and their culture. However, in 1881 it was
razed to the ground by colonial militia and Te Whiti was imprisoned.
The government knew that they would have trouble convicting him of any
crime, so they introduced a special law to keep him detained in prison
without trial indefinitely. Some degree of redress is now available to
Maori through the Treaty of Waitangi Commission.

We left Auckland at 5:00 am and drove to Taranaki (about 5-1/2 hours'
drive), had a delicious lunch and latte in the cafe at the North Egmont
Visitors' Centre, left the car in the carpark and headed up the Razorback
track to the Round the Mountain track (RTM) and on to the Holly Hut. The
Razorback track starts beside the Camphouse. It's a historic DOC bunkhouse
that served as barracks for militia in New Plymouth during the Land Wars
of the 1860s and was moved to North Egmont in 1891.
The Razorback track climbs from 952 metres at North Egmont to about 1,300
metres, where it joins the RTM, which gives spectacular views to Mt Ruapehu
and Mt Tongariro to the east and coastline to the north. Luckily, while
Northland and Auckland were being battered by a storm from the north-east,
Taranaki was crystal clear and bone dry. Every drop of water had frozen
out of the air, all the mud was rock-hard and most of the streams were
empty except for pools of ice. We couldn't help but spend hours admiring
the view and reached the Holly Hut in time to appreciate the solar-powered
lighting system. We had the hut to ourselves.

The next equally stunning day we tramped across Ahukawakawa Swamp, which
is boardwalked, crossed the river (slightly over ankle-deep but very, very
cold) and up the Pouakai Range to Poukai Hut. That night the condensation
froze on the inside of the hut windows, but the dawn (pictured) was worth
every frozen second. From Pouakai Hut you can see the town of New Plymouth,
out to sea and up the coastline for a very long way. Leaving Pouakai Hut we
tramped along the ridgeline past frozen tarns and on to Maude and Henry
Peaks and the Kaiaui Track.

There were stunning views of Taranaki in the morning light (pictured)
from the ridgeline, but soon after Maude Peak the track deteriorated
into a severely eroded narrow v-shaped cut that was chest-deep in most
places and barely wide enough for a boot to fit in at the bottom. It
was tough going and slow. Below the treeline the track improved somewhat
and after Kaiaui Hut (small and dark) it was quite good, but we had been
going for several hours by then. When daywalkers offered us a lift back
up the final 2 kilometre stretch of road to the North Egmont carpark we
were overjoyed. Great views, but an overly gruelling day on an awful track.
Overall though, the perfect weather and truly awesome scenery outweighed the
last diabolical day.
This time we stayed in the Camphouse overnight
(excellent - hot showers!), tramped round to the Holly Hut, had a rest
day there, and then over to Pouakai Hut and finally out to the Mangorei
Rd end, where we got shuttled back to North Egmont.

We were a party of six, including my twelve year old son, and we didn't
want to do anything too gruelling, so the option of walking out to the
Mangorei Rd end was great. The weather, however, went from low cloud at
first to torrential rain, sunny patches and then finally snowing on our
last day. The tracks had fearsomely strong streams to cross and were either
underwater or ankle-deep mudpools (or both). The river in Ahukawakawa Swamp
(at bottom of picture looking back towards the Holly Hut) was waist-deep,
strong and numbingly cold. We crossed ok, but if it had been any deeper,
we wouldn't have been able to.

It was wild and exhilarating. The dusting of snow on the ridge made for
magical scenery and the clouds parted for one sunny afternoon, just where
we could look back at the mountain and off out to sea. There was even a
rainbow on the mountain and the Pouakai Hut was bathed in warm, golden
light. We'd had the Holly Hut pretty much to ourselves for two days and
we had the Pouakai Hut to ourselves too. Evidently the weather had put
people off.

The hut trembled from wind gusts during the night and we awoke to fresh
snow outside and sleet covering the windows. We didn't want to leave
because it was so wild and beautiful, but we had a shuttle organised
to pick us up and deliver us back to our cars at North Egmont (about
45 minutes' drive). It was a wonderful trip - challenging, exhilarating
and utterly wild.
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